In this city, restaurants come and go faster than you can say "ethically sourced ramen burger." And even though there are great new additions to the culinary landscape popping up every week, you've gotta give kudos to anyone who can stick it out for over a year. With that in mind, we bring you Still Got It, our tribute to establishments that continue to serve mouthwatering meals and drinks long after the buzz has faded—or where the lingering hype is still justified.
Uncle Boons was a big hit when it debuted on Spring Street in 2013. Four years later, the funky little Nolita Thai spot, manned by former Per Se cooks Matt Danzer and Ann Redding, is still going strong. Your best bet here is to go with a group so you can try a little bit of everything, though you'll have to wait a bit for a table—post up at the bar or have a drink at Sweet & Vicious or Mother's Ruin nearby if that's packed, too.
Once it's time to feast, though, Uncle Boon's has delectable shared dishes in spades. It's hard to recommend just one or two dishes, since everything here shines, but small plates of note include yam mamoung, a spicy green mango salad with avocado, dried squid, crushed peanuts and chile and lime ($14); the super-spicy yum kau hua pli, a rotisserie chicken and banana blossom salad ($15); and muu tod kapi, pork riblets dusted with shrimp paste and served with a fish sauce caramel ($12).
If you've got room in your stomach (and a big group), there are some standout large plates, too. The Gaeng som is a particular favorite of mine, comprised of black cod and trumpet royale mushrooms simmering in a piquant tumeric broth ($29). The kao pat puu, a crab fried rice dish ($26), is also delicious, though quite filling. And the Massamun neuh ($25)—boneless beef ribs with curry and potato, should not be missed. Make sure to get side orders of sticky rice and roti to help wipe up all the sauce.
As for beverages, Uncle Boons is particularly famous for its beer slushies, which run $8-a-pop. These babies are basically just bottles of half-frozen Chang beer, but they helpfully come with a metal mug to catch foaming chunks of ice. If beer's not your thing, there's a whole slew of punches, sours, and other cocktails—which you can order by the pitcher—beers and ciders, and a full wine list. You can try your luck with $5 "Ya Dong" shots, which are traditional Thai street side tonics and include the bourbon-heavy "Water Buffalo Spirit," Thai basil-infused vodka "Peacock Tears," and the "Golden Tiger," made with tequila. Take a shot and close out your meal with their famed milk toast, a sweet piece of bread soaked in coconut milk. Don't expect to eat again for at least a week.
Uncle Boons is located at 7 Spring Street between the Bowery and Elizabeth Street in Nolita (646-370-6650, uncleboons.com).
