21 October 2023

Melbourne's gorgeous Flinders St railway station: clocks & towers

Flinders St Station was commenced in Sep 1854, the first steam rail­way station built in Australia, part of Melbourne’s late C19th urban expans­ion. Just a collection of weather-board sheds then, the Melbourne terminus saw a single line ins­t­alled, leaving for Sand­ridge-Port Melbourne. This temporary wooden build­ing lasted until 1901.

 Edwardian baroque building all the way down Flinders St
Completed 1910

A competition by the Railway Commission called for people to design a new and improved st­ation, first pr­ize being £500. Railway work­ers JW Fawcett & HPC Ashworth won, designing the station that still impresses. The new station cost £514,000, becoming Melb­ourne’s cultural icon in 10 years: the dome, grand entrance­way, towers and selection of clocks. The architecture was influenced by Fren­ch Ren­ais­sance style and was completed in 1910, reflecting the growing im­portance of Melb­ourne as a maj­or  commer­cial-indus­t­rial city.

One of the two clock towers built in 1914

The two clock towers above its entrances were built in 1914. The clocks were manufactured by Johnson’s in Sydney, and were installed in the towers in 1914 in a major engin­eering project. The towers needed to be braced to withstand the weight of the clock mechan­isms, as were the wings connect­ing the main building to the towers. They remain thus today, 77 ms high and visible from 10 ks away. The large clocks in the towers were visible to railway workers, passengers and people in the streets below.

The Deco clock tower shafts were always very narrow and hollow. They were filled with bricks when the towers were built, but the bricks were removed in the 1920s to create space for the winding mechanism. Inside the shafts, there’s now room for passengers to climb the stairs and look out the windows high over the city. The shafts were held up by a series of wooden joists and beams, meaning that they were extremely flex­ible and able to withstand constant use.

The small clocks at its entrance, indicating next departure times for Melb­ourne's train lines, were once manually changed for each depart­ure by station attendants with a two-way radio and a long pole: 900 times every 8 hours. The actual timekeeping mech­anism was in an adjacent room, and the power from the weights was transmitted to the mechanism by a series of pulleys. The clocks were wound manually once every week, with a winding key in the basement. The clocks are comput­erised now.

9 of the 13 clocks at the station's entrance
Note the steps where people wait for friends and family
  
There are 13 clocks still displayed to this day, indicating the different train departures to each suburban train line. The wide steps underneath the clocks are used as a popular meeting place; I’ll meet you under the clocks refers to this row of clocks that line the wall above the main entrance. The steps have been so popular that they were refitted lat­er to include winter heating.

The station was built as a ter­minus for both passenger and cargo rail services, as well as a major centre for goods distribution. Located at Swanston and Flinders Sts corner and stretched al­ong the Yarra River covering two city blocks, the station looks magnific­ent in its ornate baroque style architecture. 

The station had a major upg­r­ade in the 1920s, with the addition of side wings and a pedestrian sub­way link­ing Flinders St with Swanston St.  By the mid 1920s Flind­ers St was the busiest train station in the entire world serving up to 300,000 passengers a day! It outdid Gare St Lazare Paris, Grand Central NY and Liverpool St London.

The clock tower shafts were made of sandstone, with ar­chit­ectural feat­ures in the Art Deco style including geometric shapes, che­v­rons and stylised leaves. The new pieces of architectural decoration that were added in up­grade were a] an archit­ect­ural cart­ouche featuring a stylised peacock, a sy­mbol of immortality. And b] a stylised depiction of a ship, a symbol of Melbourne’s role as a major port.

Interior spaces could be leased for facilities, from the base­ment to 4 floors up. Most of the top floor was reserved for the Vic­t­orian Rail­ways Institute which later included a lecture theatre. This was ev­ent­ually converted into a grand ballroom, po­p­ular for dances in the 50s and 60s; library; billiard room; gymnasium-boxing ring; and roof-top running track where the male employees exercised during breaks.

Foyer inside the front entrance 
with ticket booths
   
The station opened a children’s nursery in June 1933, with cot rooms, playrooms, kitchen and a rooftop play­­ground. Mothers travelling by train left their youngsters cared by qualif­ied nurses while shop­ping in the city. The nurs­ery temporarily closed in 1937 during a po­lio epid­emic and per­m­anently closed in the war in 1942. Aft­er WW2, the grand ballroom became a cultural hub, hos­t­­ing concerts, dances and gatherings. But it closed in mid-1980s and fell apart.

In 1954, to cater for the increasing traffic, as well as for the 1956 summer Olympics, the subway from the station was extended to the north side of Flinders St. In March 1966 Platform 1 was extended to 708 ms, stretching two city blocks from Swanston St, the longest platform in Australia. It is still servicing two rural lines.

It is interesting that the original indicator clocks were removed and replaced with digital displays in the 1980s, but a huge public outcry resulted in the old clocks being restored within a day! This station still boasts crowds of travellers on its stairs, concourses, underpasses and platforms.

Flinders St Station remains the symbol of Melbourne, the city having a population of 5,235,000 (2023).




24 comments:

Jo-Anne's Ramblings said...

A wonderful post about an amazing place, digital displays are good but are now days young people can't read the old analogue clocks which is sad

roentare said...

So interesting to read about Flinders Station. It is my regular photo walk meeting spot with various groups.

My name is Erika. said...

What a gorgeous building. It speaks to the grand old days of train travel, and that makes it a little bit romantic. Have a lovely weekend.

Andrew said...

Half a million pounds is an awful lot of money in the 1800s. Given the station is over 100 hundred years old and has been used by millions of people, it was money well spent.

I see I am not alone my my clock memory. Yes, digital clocks were going to replace the clocks we know and love, but it never happened, such was the outcry when the great unwashed heard of the plan. I wonder if anyone nowadays actually checks the clocks for the next train when all the information can be on your phone screen.

Margaret D said...

A great building in Melbourne Hels.
Thank for the history of it and wow a lot of money back then but well worth it.

Train Man said...

Between 1880–1890 Melbourne was booming rapidly in population and property, the second-largest city in the British Empire. No wonder Flinders St Railway Station, Royal Exhibition Building and Melbourne University were built to impress. The citizens called it Marvellous Melbourne for a good reason.

River said...

It's a very beautiful station and I hope it stays that way. Our Adelaide station was nice enough, but not at all comparable, then "they" built a casino on top of it and the underground part which is the actual station has never been the same.

Hels said...

Jo-Anne

Change is always inevitable, but young people not being able to tell the time from an analogue clock is fairly humiliating. I know it is true because, when my watch band broke and I asked to borrow a wrist watch from my grandchildren, each said "for goodness sake granny, I haven't had a watch for years.... I only use my smartphone".

Hels said...

roentare

I didn't realise you organised and led photo walks with different groups. But your meeting place in front of the Flinders St Station is ideal. Firstly the station is perfectly located for people from all over town, and secondly the architecture is stunning!

Hels said...

Erika

Melbourne also has trams (which I love, but they travel slowly) and buses (which pollute and smell). But our railway system is fast, clean, well spread all around the city and reminds us of the glory days of the pre-WW1 decades. Perfect :)

Hels said...

Andrew

you are probably right in assuming that nowadays few people would check the clocks for the next train, given that all the information can be on your phone screen. However the clocks signify Melbourne so I hope that they are never taken down.

By the way, the development costs changed from time to time. Not the first huge project where some plans were not finished or some services were closed down, imagine the railway architects and engineers having to survive Great Depressions or World Wars. Or in the case of Sydney Opera House, coping with a new government that didn't approve of the original contracts.

jabblog said...

It is a very impressive structure. I love the name, Flinders Street.

Hels said...

Margaret

I should have added in the post that Melbourne was spending a HUGE amount of money on spectacular architecture at the one time. Just as well some of those treasures have survived till today, because a Marvellous Melbourne era may never happen again.

Hels said...

Train Man

Money was sloshing around the Southern Capital City in the late 19th century, after the gold rush in Central Victoria. But what happened to working families and to the unemployed.. at the same time? Could they have sent their children to Melbourne University, newly laid out and gloriously built? Could they have loved going to the stunning Princess Theatre on a Saturday night? I think Marvellous Melbourne was not equally spread around for all citizens.

Hels said...

River

I have been to the Adelaide casino but I had no idea of the history. So thank you.

Adelaide's neo-classical railway station design externally and internally harked back to C19th although the building material was not stone or brick but reinforced concrete. During the 1980s much of the interior has been refurbished, facades cleaned and restored, and a large section approached from the original main entry hall on the east has been converted sympathetically to the Adelaide Casino.

https://d31atr86jnqrq2.cloudfront.net/heritage-places/heritage-place-information-sheet-north-terrace-adelaide-railway-station.pdf

Hels said...

jabblog

When I was in high school and had never been overseas yet, I thought Flinders St Station was the most beautiful railway building anywhere. Later I saw Kings Cross London, Kuala Lumpur Railway Station etc and decided that every city wants its central railway station to be fabulous.

Meltours said...

This tour starts off under the clocks which has been Melbourne’s favourite meeting place for decades. From there it takes you over the concourse, along its platforms and through its subways as you are taken back in time to the period of romantic travel. Unfortunately access to the Ballroom is not possible due to State Government requirements! Hear about the first juice bar in Melbourne established in 1926, a crèche with an outdoor play area created in the 1930s and more! The tour is 2 hours and is limited to 14 people. $65 per person

Flinders Street Station tour
MELTours

Hilary Melton-Butcher said...

Hi Hels - I'm glad they've remembered Flinders - so much could be written about Sir Flinders Petrie, and his parents ... I think there's a route N - S from Adelaide north ... named after both his antecedents. The architecture from those days is so much more interesting than much today ... cheers Hilary

Fun60 said...

A building I admired when I visited Melbourne in 2012. Interesting to read about the clicks. Thank heavens there was a public outcry about their removal. Digital clocks are functional but soulless

Parnassus said...

Hello Hels, Nice to see this station looking so spruce. Of all types of historic buildings, train stations have perhaps suffered the most preservation-wise, as there is so much less passenger service, and what there is has become mere utilitarian. You might like this video of three lost NYC icons, ably discussed by an architect, and with the famous Penn Station covered first:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6dEqggG6aE

--Jim

hels said...

Meltours
Perfect.. many thanks. Is there any analysis of the architecture or the decorative arts?

Hels said...

Hilary

Flinders street was named after English explorer, Matthew Flinders, an early arrival in Port Phillip and therefore in Melbourne. Running alongside Melbourne's most important river, the Yarra, this was and is a main city thoroughfare for trams, trains, hotels, blocks of flats and churches, offices and shops.

I agree with you re late Victorian architecture often being more interesting than modern stuff.

Hels said...

Parnassus

thank you for your youtube reference which I hope readers will have a good look at.
How dismal is it that train stations have suffered the most preservation-wise because they were almost always beautifully designed, solidly built and perfectly located. We should have been preserving these icons FIRST!

Hels said...

Fun60

I think the original clocks were critical to preserve because they represent a surviving heritage from Marvellous Melbourne. Some of the most beautiful Victorian and Edwardian sites were destroyed, or mangled beyond recognition. Cultural history concerns many people a great deal, but others don't seem to give a flying toss.