New Hidden Taco Shop Slinging First-Rate Birria In Bushwick

The vinyl banner above the window reads "VM Electronic and Smartphone Repair." The swing sign boasts that they're an authorized agent for La Nacional. And painted big on the wall next to the front door? It's all about the barber shop. In other words, if you didn't know this tiny shop on Irving Avenue houses one of NYC's best new taquerias—and there have been a lot of them recently—it's unlikely you'd waltz in looking for a meal.

The place is called Nene's Deli and Taqueria, and it's owned and operated by Andrés Tonatiuh Galindo Maria, a young chef who grew up around the corner and spent the first part of his career at restaurants like Ai Fiori and Jean-Georges. Last February he left the latter to take a quick break and regroup at his family farm in Puebla, Mexico, and wound up spending six months down there, trapped by the pandemic. A miserable job market greeted him when he finally got back to the city—"even when there is a job, the money they're paying right now is terrible," he said—so when a landlord offered him this space on Irving, Galindo Maria decided what the hell and opened his own business.

Even when you're standing inside Nene's it's not abundantly clear that you can get a full array of prepared-to-order street food here. Honestly, at first glance it looks like a somewhat weary old bodega, the shelves semi-stocked with things like hot sauce, toiletries, and a random selection of chips, cookies, and big bags of candy. Ah, but there's the menu, a small chalkboard by the front door with one-word dish descriptors. For further clarification on anything, just ask whoever is behind the counter for details. Or just order away! Based on my feast last week, it seems like everything is delicious here, so you can't really go wrong.

That said, you're definitely at Nene's for the Birria, that sloppy, meaty stew of a tortilla stuffer that's turning up everywhere these days. Galindo Maria uses a spiced-up beef shank for his version, piled onto cheese-crusted, sauce-stained flour tortillas and topped with onion and cilantro. I had a couple of Birria Tacos--you can also get a Quesabirria, or a birria anything else—and they were terrific. Obviously spring for the side of consomé for dipping and sipping, to maximize your joy.

But you know what? I think the Steak Burrito was my favorite thing I ate at Nene's — just a massive, gooey, masterpiece of the form, packed with rice, avocado, melted cheese, and lots of tender beef in a cheesy shell. Pour on a bit of the super spicy red sauce or slightly milder green sauce before each bite, and you've got one of the best $10 dinners in town. Or get an open face Picada, your fillings assembled atop a crisp-fried tortilla base. It reminded me of those formerly-trendy taco salad bowls, but more like a taco plate.

My final dish was an insane Pork Mulita, a meal's worth of meat, cheese, and fixings all piled between two chewy tortillas. Tortas and Tlacoyos were also available when I was there, and according to Grub Street you can go off-menu and order a cup of Birria Ramen anytime, which sounds like a great idea on a frigid winter's night. And now Galindo Maria’s making Birria Pizza! Maybe things will be okay after all.

There's a small table with a single chair set up by the door, but the obvious move is take everything to Maria Hernandez Park a half a block away and wolf it all down for a chilly picnic.

Nene's Deli Taqueria is located at 54 Irving Avenue, between Starr and Troutman Streets, and is currently open noon to 11 p.m. daily (347-789-5745; @nenestaqueria)