Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings lobster from "Shark Tank" to Lexington Avenue.
THE VIBE
Cousins Maine Lobster, as the blaring signage informs you in the entrance-way, has been featured on a bunch of TV shows and stations, including the Food Network, CNN, the Today Show, and, most importantly and famously it seems, Shark Tank. But you should not be dissuaded by all the "As Seen On TV" marketing you'll see, because once you're settled inside, Cousins feels more like an actual NYC neighborhood restaurant than a soulless spin-off.
A lot of that has to do with the fact that Cousins is franchised, so although it's part of a large chain of lobster trucks and storefronts from licensors Jim Tselikis and Sabin Lomac, this specific outlet is run by local husband and wife team Yunus and Veenus Shahul, who have staffed the place with friendly, confident young New Yorkers. It's a counter service set-up, which takes its logistical cues from Shake Shack: they ask your name, for example, even though it's irrelevant to the process, and you get one of those blinking buzzing devices to alert you when your food is ready (although both times I went during opening week they were kind enough to bring the tray over to my table). Note: The corner location offers ample window seating.
The design is all mandated by corporate of course, and everything is relentlessly branded. In unsurprising fashion, there are hanging buoys, faux-weathered wood, and many, many photos of Tselikis and Lomac that dominate the decor.
THE BITES
Even fast-casual lobster is freaking expensive, so it better be good. And for the most part Cousins delivers on its end of the bargain with plump chunks of sweet sea meat. The obvious place to start here is the Maine Lobster Roll, which Cousins handles with aplomb, just a whole bunch of chilled crustacean overflowing from a buttery bun, a judicious touch of mayo adding a bit of tang. Had it existed in June of 2017, it definitely would have made the list. The sandwich is served with a crisp dill spear and an impressively fresh little crock of slaw. The care given to these condiments are a good sign that someone is paying attention back there in the kitchen.
After the rolls (there's also a Connecticut version, plus a Shrimp and a Crab), the menu ventures into less traditional lobster territory. The Lobster BLT, for example, is a well-balanced sandwich with plenty of tender claw meat stacked atop the familiar trio. Toast might have been better than a bun, but otherwise this is a pretty solid option. The Lobster Tots also taste really good—the crunchy potatoes have plenty of flavor, and the juicy, lively pico de gallo is a nice touch—but I'm not convinced this is the best vehicle for crustacean intake.
No matter what you get, you should also get a bowl (or a cup) of the Cousins first-rate New England Clam Chowder, which is briny, creamy, and thick, the namesake bivalves not even remotely rubbery. The Wicked brand Whoopie Pie, shipped in from Maine (I had the Peanut Butter one, but there are about a half dozen flavors available), serves its sugary function, but it's too dry to heartily recommend.
THE VERDICT
Despite the chain-restaurant trappings, the food is all prepared with skill and care, and the staff makes you feel welcome. If you have a lobster craving that needs satisfying, this is a good choice.
Cousins Maine Lobster is located at 77 Lexington Avenue at the corner of 26th Street and is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and until 10:30 on Friday and Saturday nights. Serves beer and wine. (212-651-4293; cousinsmainlobster.com)
