On the one hand it seems like the most natural thing in the world, that on a hot sunny day at one of New York City's great beaches people would swim and play and jump around in the water. On the other hand, given that we're still in the midst of a pandemic, it also feels surreal that we can do this again.

It's true though: lifeguards are now on duty at the city's beaches, for those who want to get in on some of that cool and refreshing Atlantic Ocean action. When I asked one young guard at Rockaway if he was happy to be back on the job he said without hesitation, "I'm ecstatic. I fucking love the beach."

While beaches were previously open, swimming was not permitted, and Mayor Bill de Blasio had sent mixed messages about what was allowed prior to July 1st when lifeguards returned; in May, he said, "It’s just not time for beaches yet. If people want to take a beach chair and sit on the beach, fine. If it starts to seem like a typical summer beach scene, that’s what we won’t allow."

Scott Lynch / Gothamist

The return of legal swimming to Rockaway also marks the reopening of the boardwalk concession stands, with vendors serving food and drinks once again at Beach 106th, Beach 97th, and Beach 86th. And they have plenty of pandemic protocols in place.

There are no tables at any of the stands, for instance, though the benches on the boardwalk remain in place and, of course, you can always bring your food down to the beach (though technically not your alcohol). Each concession has a two-window "Order Here" and "Pick Up Here" setup, with plexiglass shields between customers and counter workers. Distancing is expected on any lines that may (will) occur, and there are more reminders and demands and pleas to wear a mask than anywhere I've seen.

A word about masks. Wear a mask. Just wear one! Cloth, surgical, N95, bandana, fashionable, silly, functional... if you're going to be close to or interacting with another human being, wear a mask. Don't be like the dude who was leaning over the counter maskless talking with a masked-up worker who couldn't really back up and, when I asked why he wasn't wearing a mask, said "Oh yeah I have one. Back at the house. But I was surfing before..."

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At Beach 106th you'll find the beloved Brothers making their delicious smoothies, salads, pastries, and killer egg-and-pesto sandwiches. Speaking about all of the new pandemic procedures one of the namesake brothers Matthew Webster told me, "Yeah, the whole thing sucks! But I'm excited and grateful to finally be open." Also here at Beach 106th is the venerable Caracas Arepas with a pared-down menu of arepas, empanadas, and beverages like frozen sangrias.

Beach 97th, normally home to a half dozen vendors or more, has also greatly truncated its offerings. Low Tide Bar pours booze, High 97 cooks up a few hot sandwiches, and La Fruteria has coffee and smoothies in the morning. Note that Beach 97 regular La Cevicheria will be popping up within Thank You cafe at Beach 116th for the season, so you'll have to go uptown to get your first rate citrus-cured fish this summer.

Cheeseburger ($9.50) and Fries ($4) at Rippers

Scott Lynch / Gothamist

Finally, the legendary Rippers is back at the big stand at Beach 86th though, again, the menu for now just features the basics, in this case cheeseburgers and fries, both of which are among the best in the city.

Adding to the somewhat tentative, slightly off-kilter feel to things: this group of vendors are in the final year of their concession contract with the city. The partners put in a bid for renewal last December, and though they were supposed to hear back in February, everything is still up in the air. As one of the partners Michael Powers said, "It makes it hard, not knowing, but I'm stoked to be back and if this is our last dance, then let's have some fun."